Welcome to Japan’s Most Dramatic Hot Spring Spectacle
Nestled on the eastern coast of Kyushu, Beppu is one of Japan’s most extraordinary onsen destinations, producing more hot spring water than almost anywhere else on Earth. While most visitors think of onsen as places to bathe, Beppu offers something entirely different: the Jigoku Meguri, or “Hell Tour,” a circuit of surreal, boiling hot springs that are far too hot and mineral-rich to enter, yet endlessly fascinating to observe. This guide covers everything you need to know about exploring Beppu’s famous hell circuit and the surrounding onsen culture.
What Is the Beppu Hell Tour?
The term “jigoku” (地獄), meaning “hell,” was coined by early visitors who witnessed these steaming, bubbling, vividly colored pools and imagined they had stumbled upon the underworld. Unlike typical onsen where you soak and relax, the hells are strictly for viewing. Water temperatures often exceed 90°C (194°F), making them far too dangerous for bathing. Instead, visitors walk between beautifully landscaped gardens to observe pools of cobalt blue, blood red, and muddy grey water, each with its own geological quirks and legends.
There are nine officially recognized hells, seven of which are clustered in the Kannawa district and two in the Shibaseki area, a short bus ride away. Most travelers spend half a day to a full day completing the circuit.
The Seven Hells of Kannawa
Umi Jigoku (Sea Hell)
Often considered the most beautiful of the hells, Umi Jigoku features a striking cobalt-blue pool caused by dissolved iron sulfate. Surrounded by lush gardens, this hell also has a foot bath where visitors can soak their feet in naturally heated water while admiring the view.
Oniishibozu Jigoku (Monk’s Head Hell)
This hell is filled with bubbling grey mud that forms round shapes resembling the shaved heads of Buddhist monks, giving it its whimsical name. The slow, rhythmic bubbling is mesmerizing to watch.
Kamado Jigoku (Cooking Pot Hell)
Named after a giant cauldron statue at its entrance, this hell has multiple ponds in different colors, from bright red to milky white. It’s a favorite for photography and often has fun onsen-themed snacks available nearby.
Oniyama Jigoku (Mountain Hell)
Unusual among the hells, this one doubles as a small crocodile farm, using the geothermal heat to keep the reptiles warm year-round. It’s a quirky, unexpected stop on the circuit.
Shiraike Jigoku (White Pond Hell)
The milky, pale blue-white water here is caused by minerals reacting once exposed to air and cooler temperatures. There’s also a small aquarium on site featuring tropical fish raised using the hot spring water.
Chinoike Jigoku (Blood Pond Hell)
Perhaps the most iconic of all nine hells, Chinoike Jigoku is a vivid, rust-red pond caused by iron oxide and magnesium in the water. It is Japan’s oldest natural hot spring of its kind and an unforgettable photo opportunity.
Tatsumaki Jigoku (Waterspout Hell)
This is Beppu’s own geyser, erupting at regular intervals and shooting boiling water and steam several meters into the air. A protective roof has been built to keep visitors safe while still allowing a close-up view of the eruption.
The Two Hells of Shibaseki
A short bus ride from Kannawa, Chinoike Jigoku and Tatsumaki Jigoku are sometimes grouped separately as the Shibaseki hells, though many itineraries include them within the same day trip due to their proximity and the frequent shuttle bus connections.
How to Plan Your Hell Tour
Getting There
Beppu is easily reached by train from Fukuoka (around 2 hours via limited express) or by domestic flight into Oita Airport. Once in Beppu, local buses connect the JR Beppu Station to the Kannawa and Shibaseki hell districts. A day pass for the Kamenoi Bus network is highly recommended, as it covers all the necessary stops and offers significant savings over individual tickets.
Tickets and Costs
Each hell charges a small individual entrance fee, but purchasing a combined ticket covering all seven main hells is far more economical if you plan to see most or all of them. These combination tickets can be purchased at any of the participating hells and are valid for repeated use throughout the day.
How Much Time to Allow
Most visitors can comfortably see all nine hells in a single day, especially if starting early in the morning. If you prefer a more relaxed pace with time for photos, tea breaks, and onsen-themed snacks, consider splitting the tour across a day and a half.
Beyond the Hells: Bathing in Beppu
While the hells themselves are not for bathing, Beppu is surrounded by hundreds of genuine hot spring baths where visitors can soak in the same mineral-rich waters. The city is famous for eight distinct onsen areas collectively known as Beppu Hatto, each with slightly different water compositions and bathing traditions. Popular options include:
- Sand baths (suna-yu), where visitors are buried up to the neck in naturally heated volcanic sand
- Mud baths (doro-yu), prized for their skin-softening properties
- Traditional indoor and outdoor communal baths (rotenburo) found throughout the Kannawa district
- Steam baths using geothermal vents to create natural saunas
Many ryokan and public bathhouses in Beppu offer day-use access, making it easy to combine the hell tour with a relaxing soak afterward.
Local Food and Onsen Cuisine
Beppu has turned its geothermal heat into a culinary art form. Jigoku mushi, or “hell steaming,” uses the natural steam vents to cook eggs, vegetables, and seafood without any added fat or oil. Visitors can try this cooking method themselves at dedicated steam cooking facilities in Kannawa, where you purchase ingredients and steam them yourself in communal cookers fed directly by the hot springs.
Tips for Visiting the Hells
- Wear comfortable walking shoes, as the hells are spread across a fairly large area
- Bring a light jacket even in warmer months, as steam and humidity can vary between sites
- Photography is welcome at every hell, but be mindful of slippery walkways near the pools
- Visit early in the day to avoid tour bus crowds, particularly at Chinoike Jigoku and Umi Jigoku
- Combine your visit with a foot bath stop to rest between sites
Why the Beppu Hell Tour Belongs on Your Japan Itinerary
The Beppu Onsen Hell Tour offers something genuinely unique in Japan’s travel landscape: a chance to witness the raw geothermal power beneath the earth’s surface in a safe, beautifully curated setting. Whether you’re drawn by the surreal colors, the geological curiosity, or simply the chance to relax afterward in a genuine hot spring bath, Beppu delivers an unforgettable day trip that combines natural wonder with deep-rooted Japanese onsen culture. Pair it with a stay in nearby Yufuin or a visit to Oita’s coastal attractions, and you have the makings of a rich, varied Kyushu itinerary that goes well beyond Japan’s more famous cities.