Why Takamatsu Deserves a Spot on Your Japan Itinerary
While most first-time visitors to Japan funnel through Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka, a quieter and equally rewarding experience awaits in Takamatsu, the gateway city to Shikoku. As an underrated destination that rarely appears on mainstream itineraries, Takamatsu offers the rare combination of authentic local culture, stunning gardens, contemporary art, and some of the best udon noodles in the country — all without the overwhelming crowds you’ll find in Japan’s headline cities. If you’re looking to avoid crowds while still experiencing something deeply Japanese, this off the beaten path city in Kagawa Prefecture is exactly what you need.
Getting to Takamatsu: Easier Than You Think
One of the biggest myths about visiting Shikoku is that it’s difficult to reach. In reality, Takamatsu is well connected by both rail and air. From Okayama, a direct limited express train (the Marine Liner) crosses the dramatic Seto Ohashi Bridge in about an hour, making it an easy add-on from Osaka or Hiroshima via the Shinkansen network. There are also direct flights from Tokyo’s Haneda Airport to Takamatsu Airport, taking roughly 90 minutes. This accessibility, combined with its relative obscurity among international tourists, makes Takamatsu a perfect example of smart regional dispersion travel — you get convenience without the congestion.
Ritsurin Garden: A Masterpiece Without the Crowds
Often overshadowed by Kyoto’s famous gardens, Ritsurin Garden is widely regarded by garden experts as one of the most beautiful strolling gardens in all of Japan — and yet it remains blissfully uncrowded. Built over a period of roughly 100 years during the Edo period, this garden features six ponds, thirteen tree-covered hills, and meticulously trimmed pine trees that took generations to shape. Visit early in the morning for reflections on the water, or in the evening during seasonal illumination events. Renting a traditional wooden boat to glide across the South Pond is a highlight most visitors to Japan never even know exists.
Takamatsu Castle Ruins
A short walk from the station, the ruins of Takamatsu Castle (Tamamo Park) sit directly on the Seto Inland Sea, making it one of only three castles in Japan built with seawater moats. While the main keep no longer stands, the atmospheric stone walls, restored turrets, and sea breeze make this a peaceful stop that most tourists overlook entirely.
Island Hopping in the Seto Inland Sea
Takamatsu is the launching point for exploring the art islands of the Seto Inland Sea, and while Naoshima has gained some international recognition, its neighboring islands remain wonderfully quiet. Consider these alternatives for a genuinely off the beaten path experience:
- Megijima Island: Known for its Ogre’s Cave legend and unique wind-shelter walls, reachable by a 20-minute ferry.
- Ogijima Island: A tiny, cat-friendly fishing village with hillside art installations and barely any tourists.
- Shodoshima Island: Famous for olive groves, soy sauce breweries, and a stunning sea-parting sandbar at Angel Road.
- Naoshima: If you do visit, go on a weekday morning to experience the Chichu Art Museum and Benesse House without the weekend rush.
Visiting these islands directly from Takamatsu, rather than as a day trip from Okayama, allows you to spread your time more evenly and avoid the peak-hour ferry crushes that hit Naoshima on weekends and holidays.
Yashima: History, Views, and Legend
Rising above the eastern edge of the city, the flat-topped plateau of Yashima was the site of a pivotal battle between the Taira and Minamoto clans in the 12th century. Today, you can reach the summit by bus or a scenic hike, rewarding you with panoramic views over the Seto Inland Sea. At the top, Yashima-ji Temple (number 84 on the famous Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage) offers a peaceful, contemplative atmosphere that feels worlds away from the crowded temple circuits of Kyoto.
Shikoku Mura: An Open-Air Village Museum
For travelers interested in rural Japanese architecture, Shikoku Mura is an open-air museum featuring more than 30 traditional buildings relocated from around the island, including farmhouses, a kabuki stage, and a vine suspension bridge. It’s an excellent way to understand pre-modern Shikoku life in a single afternoon, and you’ll likely have entire sections of the village to yourself.
Sanuki Udon: A Culinary Pilgrimage
Kagawa Prefecture is nicknamed “Udon Prefecture,” and for good reason — Sanuki udon, characterized by its firm, chewy texture, is considered by many food lovers to be the gold standard of udon in Japan. Unlike ramen tourism in Tokyo, udon culture here is refreshingly unpretentious. Locals recommend hopping between small, no-frills udon shops (some literally in converted garages or farmhouses) rather than sticking to a single famous restaurant. Look for self-service shops where you pick your noodles, choose toppings like tempura or a raw egg, and pay at the end — this is the authentic, low-key way Takamatsu locals eat lunch every day.
Day Trip to Kotohira: Konpira Shrine
About 30 minutes from Takamatsu by train, the town of Kotohira is home to Kotohira-gu, popularly known as Konpira-san, a shrine dedicated to seafarers. Reaching the main shrine requires climbing 785 stone steps (and 1,368 if you continue to the inner shrine), passing traditional shops selling local sweets and walking sticks along the way. The effort is rewarded with sweeping mountain views and a genuine sense of pilgrimage, without the ticketed crowds of more famous shrine complexes.
Practical Tips for an Off the Beaten Path Visit
- Best time to visit: Takamatsu is enjoyable year-round; spring and autumn offer mild weather for garden walks and island hopping, while summer is ideal for ferry trips to nearby islands.
- Getting around: The city center is walkable, and a rental bicycle is a fantastic way to reach Ritsurin Garden and the castle ruins. Buses connect to Yashima and Shikoku Mura.
- Where to stay: Choose a hotel near Takamatsu Station or the covered Marugame-machi shopping arcade for easy access to trains, ferries, and restaurants.
- Regional dispersion tip: Combine Takamatsu with other underrated Shikoku cities like Matsuyama or Tokushima to build a full off the beaten path itinerary that avoids Japan’s overtouristed hubs entirely.
- Language: English signage is more limited than in major cities, so a translation app is helpful, though locals are famously friendly and helpful to visitors.
Final Thoughts
Takamatsu proves that Japan’s most memorable travel experiences aren’t always found in its most famous cities. With a striking garden, castle ruins by the sea, quiet art islands, sacred mountain shrines, and some of the country’s best udon, this hidden gem offers everything international travelers love about Japan — minus the crowds. For anyone hoping to explore an authentic, uncrowded corner of the country, Takamatsu is well worth the detour.
Photo by H C on Unsplash
